Ireland 2023 Part 5

May 23 – Day 6 Killarney to Dungarvan via Blarney Castle & Cobh

Accommodations: Park Hotel, Dungarvan

As we leave the Kingdom (Kerry) we make our way to the Dungarvan, County Waterford (The Deise). Dennis is sad to leave Kerry, but Kevin is happy to be home in the Deise. The ribbing on the bus between the different counties is fun. Tom and Brian are from Omagh, County Tyrone. 

Our first stop today is Blarney Castle and the Woollen Mills. Of course Blarney Castle is home to the Blarney Stone where folklore confers the gift of eloquence for those who kiss it. I did not kiss it in 1986, nor this time. However, perhaps I should have as it might help with my writing skills. Blarney Castle and surrounding grounds were filled with hundreds, more like thousands of people. Many coaches were already parked by the time we arrived. The place was literally crawling with people. A far cry from what I remember on my first visit. I remember climbing to the top with no wait time and absolutely no one in front or behind me on the way up. What a difference. In fact, I don’t remember anyone else on the grounds when I was there. Krista wanted to kiss the stone and I decided to join her on the journey to the top. The wait time….1.5 hours. Imagine. We had a 3 hour stopover, so that was lots of time to enjoy the wait and walk to the top and to visit the woollen mills as well. There was much that I didn’t remember from my first visit, but being only 20 perhaps I didn’t pay as much attention. I didn’t recall the steps getting smaller and smaller as we got closer to the top, to the point I could not put my foot fully on some steps. Perhaps my aching knees pointed out the size of the steps this time. But it was well with the climb and discomfort as the views from the top of the castle are spectacular. The process for kissing the stone is to lay on your back, reaching back to hold onto iron bars in each hand, leaning backwards over the wall and kissing the stone, while an attendant holds your sides/waist. Nope, not for me. One lady attempted it and could not complete the stretch over and downward. Krista was as limber as a 5 year old, laying back, kissing, and getting up in a matter of seconds. Good for her.

Descending was a breeze with no wait at all. There is one set of steps leading up and another coming down. We did meet an employee heading up while we went down and I asked him what happens in the event of a medical emergency at the top. He said they use a helicopter of which one is always on alert nearby. And it has happened several times in the past. Believe me, with the narrow staircase, there is no way of getting a stretcher up and down. 

There is so much more to Blarney than the castle and the stone. There is a poison garden with many plants from around the world and signs posted with information about their toxicity, tradition and uses today. There are arboretums, woodland and riverside walks, a fern garden and water garden, waterfalls, dolmen, druids cave, wishing steps and so much more. Only after looking at the brochure did I realize there is so much more to see on the grounds besides the castle and the stone. Three hours is not nearly enough time to take it all in. 

After visiting the castle we made our way to the woollen mills. The woollen mills started in 1823 and was known as Mahoney’s Mills. In 1923 Christy Kelleher was 13 when he started working in the mills. He left in 1951 and entered the insurance business. In 1967 he started a souvenir shop. In 1973 the woollen mills started to decline and closed. Eventually Christy Kelleher purchased the woollen mills and transformed it into the Blarney Woollen Mills as it is known today. It is the largest Irish shop in the world, consisting of three floors, and sells products from every county in Ireland. Over half a million people visit each year and over 400 people are employed. There are crafts, food, folklore and fashion under one roof. After a little shopping I had a light snack and another 99. Surprisingly I didn’t take any pictures of the woollen mills. I was too focused on a 99.

We resume our journey to the coastal town of Cobh. The first site we see is the massive cruise ship which explains the many people and coaches at Blarney Castle.

Cobh, previously known as Queenstown, is the last port of call on the Titanic’s ill fated maiden voyage. We stop at the Cobh Heritage Centre to learn more about the Titanic. I had other plans while in Cobh. I had seen the amazing Titanic museum in Belfast in 2019 and decided to visit the Cobh Heritage Centre, only if time permitted, after making my way to St. Colman’s Cathedral. I had seen pictures of this spectacular church and knew several people who had visited and I wanted to see it as well. I asked a local how far it was and she told me it was not far, but it was a bit of a walk uphill. She gave me directions and off I went. 

St. Colman’s Cathedral is Roman Catholic. It was started in 1868 and not completed until 1919. The ever changing plans and increasing costs caused many delays. It overlooks Cork harbour, is a single steepled cathedral and is the tallest church in Ireland with the steeple measuring 300′. It is primarily constructed of granite and limestone, on a bed of sandstone. The architectural style is Gothic Revival. The tower contains Ireland’s only carillon with 49 bells and is the largest in the British Isles. The largest bell is 3.6 tons and is named St. Colman. The carillon was originally installed in 1916 and restored in 1998. 

The walk to the cathedral was very steep but well worth the climb. There was a funeral just letting out when I arrived, so I continued with my walk where I stood admiring the view. A gentleman in a suit was approaching me and I assumed he had been to the funeral. He stopped and we had a short conversation. He assured me it was fine to enter the church as everyone had exited and were only milling around greeting one another. I had seen some tourists enter and he said to go ahead back down and tour the interior. He said ‘the best part is no one will be in there yet’. Although I felt a bit awkward considering the hearse and many people were still around, I kept my distance and proceeded to enter the cathedral. WOW! Absolutely incredible. 

When I was finished at the cathedral I made my way back to the Cobh Heritage Centre. The admission ticket is a replica of the ticket that would have been given for passage on the Titanic. On it is the name of a passenger and Dennis suggested finding the history of the passenger on our ticket. I had Margaret Rice. I had enough time to try to find her story. She was born in Athlone, County Westmeath. She married William Rice. They had a son who only lived 2 months. They moved to London where they welcomed another son. They made there way to Quebec, where another son was born. They settled for a time in Ontario, welcoming two more sons. Eventually they crossed into the US and settled in Spokane, Washington, where one more son was born. William Rice was crushed by an engine and died in 1910. With a payout from her husband’s company, Margaret and her sons return to Athlone. Apparently her stay in Ireland was not to be permanent and she and her sons made plans to return to Spokane on the Titanic. The whole family was lost and only Margaret Rice’s body was recovered. She is buried in Mount Olivet Cemetery in Halifax, Nova Scotia. She was only 39. How sad. Now I want to visit her resting place which I hope to do soon.  I recently found out a friend lives right across from the cemetery and said she would like to go with me to see Margaret Rice’s resting place.

It was a short drive from Cobh to Dungarvan, our stay for the next two nights. We had a group dinner but no music tonight, as there will be a concert tomorrow night at a local pub. Krista and I went for a walk around the town this evening. A pretty place, along the harbour. 

I hope you enjoyed my visit to Blarney Castle, Cobb, and Dungarvan. All photos are taken by myself unless otherwise noted. Please leave a comment if you wish.