Ireland 2023 Part 6

May 24 – Day 7 Waterford City

Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland. Our first event was a walking tour led by a very funny and informative gentleman named Jack Burtchaell, as our tour guide. It is a one hour tour around the core of the city known as the Viking Triangle, and covers 1000 years of history. The city was founded by the Vikings 1100 and taken over by the Normans in 1170. They sealed their victory by the marriage of their leader Strongbow to Aoife, daughter of the King of Leinster. Jack had some of our group reenact the marriage of Strongbow and Aoife, with much hilarity. He explained the history of the water to the city making it one of the best trading links to other Viking settlements. We passed Reginald’s Tower, a replica Viking longship, Christ Church Cathedral which had a service going on and we were not able to enter, and City Hall. We also saw a Viking Sword which is over 15 metres long and carved out of one single Douglas Fir. The carvings detail Waterford’s history. It is the world’s longest wooden sword sculpture and was carved by John Hayes and James Doyle. 

Our second event was a tour of Waterford Crystal. I toured Waterford Crystal in 1986. On the drive into the city today, we passed the old factory that has been left derelict. It is quite sad to see the condition of the old factory knowing it was a bustle of activity for so many years with upwards of 1500 people working there during its prosperous time. A second factory in Dungarven employed around 500. Most of Waterford Crystal is now made outside of Ireland, but there is a small production site still existing in the city. Waterford Crystal chandeliers hang in Westminster Abbey, Windsor Castle and the Kennedy Centre in Washington D.C. Waterford Crystal makes the 2,688 crystals that cover the orb of the famous New Years Eve Ball that is dropped every year in New York City. Many sporting trophies are made by Waterford Crystal. Sports such as tennis, snooker, golf, Formula One racing, and college football. Many one off pieces are made at Waterford suchas a ball and bat presented to Derek Jeter and a tennis racket made for Boris Becker. Two of each are always made in case something happens to the first one in shipping. 

It takes five years of apprenticeship to be classified as a master. In the fifth and final year the apprentice would be required to complete the Apprentice Bowl. There are 600 precision cuts that are done by hand. The apprentice has only three opportunities to complete the bowl. The cutter would be graded and if passed they would receive the Waterford Crystal watermark. 

There is quite a collection of crystal in the showroom displaying bowls, glasses, vases, Christmas ornaments, animals, globes, and chandeliers. The prices are mind boggling, but once you do the tour and realize the time, precision and inspections (6) that go into making each piece, it is understandable. 

We had some free time in Waterford to have lunch, shop or walk around. After a nice lunch, Krista and I headed out for a walk finding our way back to Christ Church Cathedral. It is an Anglican/Episcopalian Cathedral that has been a place of Christian worship for over 1,000 years. This Cathedral is home to an impressive Elliot James Organ. It is one of the most important organs outside of Dublin. The case is solid mahogany and facade pipes are gold plated. During renovations in 1891, the organ was taken down from its gallery and relocated to the front left of the cathedral. This compromised the appearance and sound. In 2003 the organ was restored and returned to its original position. The cathedral is gorgeous but I did find it a bit tacky to walk into a church and immediately see a souvenir shop selling imported Irish knick knacks. 

We arrived back at the hotel around 4pm. We were due to leave for the Marine Pub at 7. Time to call a cab for a short trip to Ring. I asked the lady at the front desk to call a cab for me. I wasn’t entirely sure just how far I was going, but knew it wasn’t a great distance. Perhaps 10-12kms or so. She dialed on cab, but no answer. She tried another, but no answer. She told me many don’t start working until 6. The third try connected her to a cab and she requested a pick up at the Park Hotel. She hung up and said they would be there within 5 minutes. I went outdoors to wait. I was a bit apprehensive about riding in a cab. Had visions of a creepy cab driver, run down car, dirty interior. Well, not even close. The car drove up and I asked if I could ride in front. The driver very happily said I certainly could. I was shocked with the interior. Absolutely spotless, leather seats, and looking brand new. I asked the driver to take me to the New Cemetery in Ring. His name was Anthony (Tony) Ahearne, and I could not have found a better driver. We talked the whole way to Ring. He asked if I was on a tour and I told him I was. When I told him the musical hosts we had, it turns out he had bought a house from one of them several years ago. He was shocked and we had a great laugh over that. He couldn’t believe. A small world for sure. He was very curious asking me about the trip and where I lived. He was just a genuinely nice guy. I was so thankful that the first two cabs that were called were not available. We passed the cemetery to turn around as it is easier to drive into from the opposite direction. I was looking for Liam Clancy’s gravesite. This is something I had planned to do when I first signed up for this tour in 2020. I have loved the music of the Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem from the time I was born. I was brought up on their music. I was lucky to see the original group perform, and the various combinations of the group. I also saw Liam Clancy and Tommy Makem as both soloists and Makem & Clancy. In the later years of Liam’s life he had a website. The first one was designed by Michael Corbett and had a very active messageboard which I assisted in maintaining and monitoring. Later Paul Grant designed Liam’s website and the messageboard continued to be a big part of the site and I continued to monitor it until it no longer existed. It was interesting. I exchanged emails with Liam often. Sometimes I’d get an email out of the blue. I miss those spontaneous correspondences with him. I miss his music. I miss him as a person. I needed to find his resting place. I had no idea where to look, but it wasn’t a large cemetery and I knew it was right along the paved path going through the cemetery. I hurried up a small hill, so as not to keep Tony waiting too long. I immediately noticed Tom Clancy’s gravestone to the right. I knew Liam’s was across from Tom’s. When I looked across, it was right there. A gentleman was visiting the site, so I held back so as not to disturb him. When he turned to leave, our eyes met and we greeted one another. Then I realized I recognized him. It was Paul Grant who backed up Liam and preformed with Liam and designed the last website for him. We had a few words and he turned and went on his way. I stood at the site, my throat became tight and soon my eyes watered. I thanked Liam for all he was; a singer, musician, performer, artist, but most of all I thanked him for just being himself. I told him how much he is still missed and loved by so many. I had three Canadian dimes with me. I placed them on his tombstone, Bluenose side up. I know he loved coming to the Maritimes to perform, so I thought it was appropriate to leave them. I rushed back to the cab. Tony said he was going to come help me look but noticed I was taking to the gentleman so assumed I had found the site. He was so happy I did find it. We had wonderful conversation on the drive back to the hotel. Tony didn’t charge me full fare. What a kind man he is. Such a special time and I think he knew it meant a lot to me. 

After a quick bite for supper it was soon time to head to the Marine. It was about a 25 minute drive on a gorgeous night. When we arrived the pub was rocking with locals. We quickly made our way to the empty chairs and stools. I talked to a couple of local ladies who were so sweet. We were jammed in pretty tight. We were so close to the guys singing that I swear we were getting spit on. And what a performance they put on. Brilliant. Kevin Evans sang one of my favourite songs he wrote, The Orchard. I’m not sure I ever heard him sing it better. I should have asked him if it means more to sing a song about home, at home. I would think it was a special time for him. Oh my happy heart. A wonderful way to end an amazing day. 

That completes my visit to Waterford, Ring and Dungarvan. It was a busy but special day. I enjoy adding my own side trips to the regularly schedules events. If you enjoyed this blog, please leave a message. As usual, all photos are taken by myself.