Category: Ireland 2019

When I received the itinerary for my trip to Ireland in May 2019, and noticed we’d be visiting Slieve League Cliffs, I was very intrigued.  One of the destinations my Grandma and I wanted to see, when we travelled to Ireland in May 1986, was the Cliffs of Moher, but time and circumstances didn’t allow us that excursion.  I don’t believe we were all that disappointed, because the rest of our trip was so phenomenal.  However, over the years I wished we had been able to visit the Cliffs of Moher.  This trip was allowing me to see cliffs, and although they weren’t the Cliffs of Moher, I somehow felt it would be a highlight.  

I googled Slieve League Cliffs and quickly found out they are actually some of the highest cliffs in Ireland and almost three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher.  This was going to be a treat. For personal reasons, I was secretly excited for this day.  In my day travel bag I placed my Grandmother’s photo, which I had carried with me to Ireland.  It was a photo of her, on the plane, as we travelled back from Ireland in 1986. I didn’t want her to miss out on the cliffs again.  

We arrive at the visitor information centre, at the base of Slieve League Cliffs.  Inside the centre  are two stunning wood carvings.  Each one is has at least four dolphins, in various poses, from swimming to surfacing from the water.  They carvings appeared to be from one solid piece of wood. 

Outside some columbine appeared to be growing wildly in a lovely shade of bluish purple.

Our large coach can’t make the trek to the upper parking area, so we park and travel on a smaller bus accompanied by two local gentlemen; one is the driver and the other provides commentary as we drive to the cliffs.  

After a quick visit in the centre, we are soon on our way up the very narrow roadway.  The drop, on the ocean side, was extremely steep.  We arrive at the parking area, at the furthest point vehicles could travel.  It was a very short walk until the cliffs were in full view.  I was stunned.  I had a huge lump in my throat and my eyes were tearing up.  Grandma and I finally got to see some cliffs.  The weather was ideal.  It is often foggy, rainy, and windy, and visibility is often hampered, but on this day it was sunny, warm and calm.  I could see for miles.  The cliffs are almost 2000 feet.  It was breathtaking.  

There appeared to be many crevices and tunnels at the base of the cliffs where the waves have been eroding the rock for years.  The colours of the cliffs range from lush green where grasses grow, to white rock, to dark greens and greys.  Fences are erected to keep people back from the edge.  There is also a boardwalk, that leads up to a path, which continues on to the top of the cliffs.  Time did not permit me to climb to the top of the cliffs, but I did go a short distance from the boardwalk on the path.  I wanted to be alone for a few minutes and just take in the sight and be lost in my thoughts.  

I tried to take a couple of selfies, but trying to get a significant portion of the cliffs in the background behind me proved to be impossible.  A very nice person saw what I was trying to do and came over and offered to take my picture for me.  How kind was that?  I then reciprocated the offer when I saw a couple trying to do the same thing.  I could tell they were most grateful even, though they didn’t speak English.  Their faces told me how happy they were.  

I just couldn’t get enough of the cliffs.  It was much more than I ever expected and I was overwhelmed.  I slowly made my way back down the path to the boardwalk.  I didn’t want to leave.  There were lots of people, but there is so much room to walk around, or just stand and stare, that it really didn’t seem busy at all.  

There are a couple of lengthy hikes that takes one to the top of the cliffs.  One is called One Man’s Pass.  It takes about 2-3 hours return to do this hike.  Another hike includes One Man’s Pass and continues on to Pilgrim’s Path.  Pilgrim’s Path is the backside of Slieve League Cliffs.  It takes about 4-5 hours and is recommended for experienced hikers.  

There were several sheep/rams lazing about on the drive up and back from the cliffs.  They appeared to be roaming freely, as it is likely a communal grazing area.  One had very long curly horns and very long straight wool.  It did not look particularly friendly and I was quite happy to be safely in the bus.  

Near the main viewing area we could see what remains of a signal tower built in the 19th century and was used to watch for a French invasion.   There is also an area where stones were placed forming 71 EIRE as a navigation aid for WW2 by American bomber pilots.  It also warned that they were flying over neutral territory.  

I left Slieve League with a feeling of peace and contentment.  It was more than I had ever expected it would be.  Brack Tours really know how to make a trip to Ireland breathtaking, entertaining, relaxing and memorable.

It is two days away from what would have been my next departure to Ireland and another trip of a lifetime.  Am I disappointed?  Of course I am, but I’m also relieved given the current situation we are in with the pandemic.  I am so very happy Brack Tours made the decision, very early on, to postpone this trip. It is now tentatively scheduled for September 2021.  In the meantime I am sitting with my “Ireland” hoodie on, with the wee tag that says “Irish Memories” and I’m revelling in the memories of the wonderful people I met and the places I visited.  Let’s go on a tour of Giant’s Causeway.  

Giant’s Causeway is located in County Antrim on the north coast of Northern Ireland.  It is near  Bushmills and not far from Portrush.  Our itinerary describes Giant’s Causeway as “a dramatic coastal landscape, steeped in local mythology, consisting of around 40,000 polygonal basalt columns jutting out into the sea, amid a spectacular coastal landscape”.  (I wonder who counted the columns.)  When I first researched this trip, this is one of the attractions that stood out for me.  I was extremely interested in visiting, although I knew little about it.  

We arrived at the reception area, from where our tour would commence.  Ray was our tour guide.  A shuttle bus travelled and up and down the road continuously.  We chose to walk to down to Giant’s Causeway and Ray provided commentary as we went along.  

Of course, like most of Ireland, there are myths, legends and folklore associated with the Giant’s Causeway.  It is believed the causeway was built by a giant, Fionn MacCumhaill (Finn MacCool).  Fionn had accepted a challenge to fight a Scottish giant, Benandonner.  Fionn built the Causeway, across the North Channel, so they could meet.  One story is that Fionn defeated Benadnonner.  In another story Fionn realized his foe was much bigger than he was, so he retreats.  Fionn’s wife, Oonagh, disguises Fionn as a baby and places him in a cradle.  When Benandonner comes looking for Fionn, Oonagh tells him he is away but invites him in to wait for Fionn.  Benandonner sees the size of the baby and assumes his father must be enormous.  He immediately goes back to Scotland destroying the Causeway as he goes, so Fionn can’t go looking for him.

In 1986 The Giant’s Causeway was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.  The majority of the columns are hexagonal (6 sided) however the smallest one found is 3 sided and the largest is 8 sided.  They were formed through volcanic eruption 50-60 million years ago. Lava flowed to the surface, pooling in the hollow areas and then cooling.  As the lava cooled, the resulting basalt cracked laterally, forming the columns.  The tops of the columns form stepping stones that extend from the cliff foot to the ocean floor.  The tallest column is 39’ with the solidified lava within the cliff being 92’ thick.  

There are many rock formations within the area such as The Organ, Giant’s Boot, Chimney Stacks, Giant’s Harp and Camel’s Hump, amongst others.  

There are several hikes at the Causeway, but time did not permit our group to participate. We did have about a half hour, or so, to explore on our own after reaching the Causeway.  Although there were hundreds of people walking down the road to the Causeway, and the buses looked to be completely filled going in both directions, it did not appear, or feel busy while walking on the rocks.  I looked at the top of some of the columns and decided I would climb them.  Although it isn’t a difficult climb, you do have to be careful where you place your feet.  After a few minutes I found myself nearing the final stages to the top.  It was time for a selfie, as I wanted to have the mountains, beyond the columns, visible in the picture.  When I finally reached the top, I raised my arms and Laura celebrated at the base of the columns and took my picture.  

I noticed many coins wedged into the stone wall.  They could not be budged and many were at precarious angles.  It appeared they had been placed there years ago.  Perhaps it was a wishing wall, much like a wishing well and the coins were placed as one made a wish.  

The scenery was spectacular.  I suppose I was not surprised as the sight of the basalt columns as it was much what I expected.  However the scenic walk down to the actual Causeway was beautiful.  A lone kayaker was paddling around the coastline in waters that were relatively calm but one can imagine the seas can change quickly.  As a kayaker I longed to be out with him/her to see the view from the water as well.  The rolling hills dropping quickly to the sea, the rugged coastline and the gorgeous blue of the ocean were such a contrast.  It was an absolutely gorgeous day weather-wise.  It was sunny and warm which just added to making this place all the more breathtaking.  The cliffs rising up so high above the columns of the Causeway provided a wonderful backdrop.  It was such an odd, eerie, yet calming feeling standing on this formation that was created millions of years ago.  

At one point, while walking on the columns, I heard a whistle blow.  I looked around but could not see what was happening.  Then the whistle continued and it was only after sounding several more times that I noticed people in orange vests located around and throughout the area.  Although everyone was exploring at their own risks, the orange vested people were keeping a watch.  In this particular instance someone was venturing too close to the edge and they were being called back.  I also noticed white tall boxes located strategically on the columns.  One side is glass and inside the box is a rescue line just in case someone slips off the rocks and lands in the water.  

We took the shuttle bus back to the top, which cost a pound.  

One disappointing aspect to Giant’s Causeway was the admission to the gift shop/visitor centre.  I can understand charging admission to the visitor centre, which is an interactive exhibit explaining the formation of the Causeway and the folklore surrounding the Causeway, but in order to purchase a momento of your visit, you had to first pay admission to get in the gift shop, which seemed peculiar.  

The area around the visitor centre is very pretty.  The blue sky, puffy white clouds, rolling hills and green fields, much of which is farmland, with many sheep grazing, and a sandy looking beach in the distance, with gentle rolling waves, was so relaxing as we gathered and waited for our bus to arrive.  

In May 2019, I travelled to Ireland with Brack Tours and musical hosts Evans and Doherty.  Our accommodations were all 4 or 5 star and all exceeded expectations, none more so than Lough Eske Castle in Donegal.  I had never thought I’d stay in a castle, but I was excited to see a castle as one of our accommodations when the itinerary arrived.  Our bus driver, Dennis, was prepping us, for our arrival at Lough Eske, for a couple of days prior to our stay.  I can’t speak for others, but I was eagerly anticipating this location.  I caught a slight glimpse of the castle, on the narrow road, leading to the VERY narrow laneway to the property.  It looked very impressive.

As mentioned, the lane was narrow, with tall trees hanging over on both sides, which made it almost seem like a tunnel, and rhododendrons in bloom everywhere amongst the trees.  As we exited the lane, and approached the circular driveway in front of the castle, there as a collective gasp from our group, as we then had our first full view of the castle and the grounds.  It was nothing short of spectacular.  As we pulled up to the front entrance, three men in black suits came out to welcome us.  One gentleman boarded the bus, welcomed us and gave a brief overview of the features of the property; wellness centre, pool, spa, gardens, walking trails, etc.  He emphasized that we were free to roam and take full advantage of all Lough Eske has to offer.

We slowly made our way off the bus, in complete awe of this place.  I was stunned thinking I was actually staying in such a majestic place.  What did I do to deserve something so luxurious?  Laura Ellis (my roommate) and I made our way slowly up the red carpeted stairs leading to the foyer.  How nice they rolled out the red carpet!  At the top of the stairs were two large decanters of beverages.  One was just water and the other was infused with fresh fruit.  There were also very large bouquets of flowers throughout the foyer and hallways.  We picked up our room cards, took the elevator up to the second floor and when we opened the door we could not believe our eyes.  This was by far the most amazing accommodation I had ever stayed in and I hadn’t even seen much of it yet.  There were two queen size beds with canopy’s over each.  (I remember looking at the Sears catalogue as a kid and dreaming about having a canopy bed someday.  I waited a long time to sleep in one.  It was worth the wait.) There were two large armoires, an elegant desk and plenty of space for a few square sets.  A hallway with large closets on either side led to the bathroom.  In the closets were thick, soft, plush housecoats and slippers, as well as extra blankets and pillows, with plenty of room to hang up way more clothes than I had with me.

The bathroom was nearly as big as the bedroom.  There was a very long counter with two sinks and heated towel racks which held several large, thick towels.  There as a sliver tray between the sinks which held soaps, shampoos and body lotion and plenty of each.  The toilet was located off the main part of the bathroom behind a frosted glass door.  A second frosted glass door led to a walk-in shower.  There were both wall shower heads and an overhead shower head.  Dials on the wall controlled temperature and the various shower heads.  The first time I took a shower I could not for the life of me figure out how to get the overhead shower to work.  I finally gave up and turned the wall sprayers off, but must have turned the knob too far when suddenly the overhead sprayer was dispensing water.  I decided to have another shower using the overhead unit.  Needless to say, I loved this shower.  In the main part of the bathroom was an oversized deep tub.  The ceramic floor was heated.  There could easily be another square set in the bathroom.  I’m thinking the fiddler and accompanist would be in the hallway between the bedroom and bathroom.  I’m serious.  This place was HUGE.

As much as I could have stayed in and enjoyed the bedroom, I was eager to get out and explore the grounds.  Upon exiting the front door, I noticed to the immediate left a bronze sculpture of a reclining lion.  There are many bronze sculptures by Lloyd LeBlanc located in various locations around the complex.  A fire breathing dragon is one of the first sculptures you see as you enter the main area from the laneway.  In the centre of the circular driveway at the front entrance is a sculpture of seven salmon jumping out of a water fountain.  Other sculptures were an eagle with a fish in its mouth, three young children playing on a stone bench, three geese flying out of a marsh, and my favourited was a lady curled up in a wicker chair reading a book.

As I moved further away from the main building to try to get a picture of the entirety of it, I found myself near a helipad.  (I’ll keep that in mind for my next visit.)  The vast manicured lush green grass was immaculate.  I strolled around to the other accommodations, wellness centre, pool/spa, and found endless gardens everywhere.  Rhododendrons, which appeared to be at their prime all over Ireland, were scattered throughout the property.  There were several colours of pinks and purples and many white as well.  Many of the well kept gardens are contained within a 2′ hedge.  There were purple and yellow iris’s, white calla lilies, many colours of roses, yellow, red, pink and purple lupins, purple and white columbine, various weigela, grasses, poppies, hosta’s and many flowers I could not identify.  There were also several palm trees throughout the gardens.

 

 

I arrived back to my room with time to unwind and relax, before our group dinner.  This meal was very good.  I had the Carrot and Parsnip Soup, Chargrilled Sirloin Steak and Chocolate Gateau.

I could smell the unique scent of peat and upon searching for the source, I found a fireplace burning turf in one of the sitting rooms.

After returning to Lough Eske, from our daily excursions the following day, I decided to head out again and explore more of the property.  I noticed a path off the main laneway and decided to see where it led.  I found a stone wall, which is the remains of one of the original dwellings.

I continued along the path and soon came to a boardwalk.  It led through the woods and on either side were rhododendrons growing wild and in full bloom.  I love rhododendrons and I was totally in my glory walking through such a gorgeous place.  It was so peaceful.

The boardwalk ended, but a footpath continued, and so did I.  I walked by an inlet and across the water were lush green trees and mountains in the distance.  The sky was so very blue with big white puffy clouds.  There were lily pads and water lilies in the water.  Some of the trees along the path looked eerie.  They were so tall with gnarly limbs going up and down and in all directions and curving around.

I finally came to the end of the path, which was at the tip of a peninsula, and I found the most gorgeous view of Lough Eske, the actual lake.  WOW.  No words to describe, emerging from this path, to find this view.  All I could do was stand in amazement.  There was an island in the middle of the lake, that looked like a grove of trees rising right out of the water.  On the other side of the lake was a scattering of homes and farms.  Beyond the homes and farmland were rolling mountains with turbines erected on top of the mountain.

I walked partway back on the same path, but then chose to walk the paved laneway the rest of the way.  I could see what looked like a grave marker off to my left, a short distance off the road.  I wandered off to see who’s resting place might be there.  I found a wrought iron fenced enclosure, which contained a large Celtic cross, marking the grave of Henry George White.

All breakfasts at our hotels were wonderful but there was a something special about Lough Eske.  We were greeted by Chef Bill, who was flipping pancakes on a griddle with one hand, while making made to order omelettes on another grill, with the other hand.    He was an interesting character.  He told me he was a ship’s captain for many years and then realized he no longer wanted to be on the high seas, so he became a chef quite late in life.  And he loves his job.  After getting my pancakes and omelet I proceeded to the chafing dishes where I found roasted potatoes, white and blood pudding, tomatoes, mushrooms, breakfast sausages, scrambled eggs, bacon and that’s when I quit lifting the covers off the dishes. There were several more as well.  When I went to get a glass of orange juice, I found the cold selections; yogurt, mountains of fresh fruit of all kinds, muffins, breads, sweet breads, cinnamon rolls, scones, croissants, dry cereals and oatmeal.  This was by far the largest, most amazing and tastiest breakfast ever. Unfortunately I didn’t get any pictures of breakfast.  I’ll have to remember that the next time I visit.

We boarded the bus after two marvellous nights at Lough Eske Castle. I don’t believe any of us wanted to leave.  The staff came out and waved to as we pulled away.  I hope I can someday get back there to visit again, even if I don’t stay the night.  I’d really like to experience their breakfast again.

A brief history of Lough Eske Castle:

Lough Eske is most closely associated with the O’Donnell family.  The new castle was built in 1861, in the Elizabethan style.  An impressive part of the castle is the tower, which held the flagstaff, where the families flag would have flown.  It would be visible from miles around.  Today the trip-coloured green, white and orange flag of the Republic of Ireland flies high.

Some of the families which owned the castle and/or the grounds were O’Donnell’s, Brooke’s and White’s.  General George White purchased the estate from Col. De Vere Brooke in 1894.  The next owners were the Knee family, which operated the castle as a hotel from 1930-1939.  The castle was severely damaged by fire in 1939.  The Knee family then sold the estate to Scott Swan.   He in turn sold it to an American, Bernard Etzin.  In the 1980’s, the estate was acquired by a commercial forestry group.  They had no interest in the actual castle, so it fell into total dereliction.  By the time the present owner, Pat Doherty, purchased it in 2005, only the outer walls remained.  Trees had grown up through the inside of the castle.  After 2 years and at an extravagant cost, Solis Lough Eske Castle was completed.  The interior is early 20th century Edwardian style.  It is a 43 acre property, with a  luxurious 5 star hotel, including a spa, banquet and conference facilities, elegant accommodations and gorgeous gardens and grounds.