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Ireland 2023 Part 6

July 30, 2023 / Hughena MacDougall / 4 Comments

French Church, or Greyfriars Abbey, Waterford City. I love how flowering plants grow out of the walls.

May 24 – Day 7 Waterford City

Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland. Our first event was a walking tour led by a very funny and informative gentleman named Jack Burtchaell, as our tour guide. It is a one hour tour around the core of the city known as the Viking Triangle, and covers 1000 years of history. The city was founded by the Vikings 1100 and taken over by the Normans in 1170. They sealed their victory by the marriage of their leader Strongbow to Aoife, daughter of the King of Leinster. Jack had some of our group reenact the marriage of Strongbow and Aoife, with much hilarity. He explained the history of the water to the city making it one of the best trading links to other Viking settlements. We passed Reginald’s Tower, a replica Viking longship, Christ Church Cathedral which had a service going on and we were not able to enter, and City Hall. We also saw a Viking Sword which is over 15 metres long and carved out of one single Douglas Fir. The carvings detail Waterford’s history. It is the world’s longest wooden sword sculpture and was carved by John Hayes and James Doyle.

We had a spare driver today whose name escapes me. He was a character.

Jack Burtchaell, tour guide for our walk around Waterford. He was hilarious.

Plaque for Brigadier General Thomas Francis Meagher

The Irish flag, or tricolour, was first flow by Thomas Francis Meagher in Waterford City in 1848 at this location, which at the time was the Wolf Tone Confederate Club.

Various pictures of the carved Viking sword

Our second event was a tour of Waterford Crystal. I toured Waterford Crystal in 1986. On the drive into the city today, we passed the old factory that has been left derelict. It is quite sad to see the condition of the old factory knowing it was a bustle of activity for so many years with upwards of 1500 people working there during its prosperous time. A second factory in Dungarven employed around 500. Most of Waterford Crystal is now made outside of Ireland, but there is a small production site still existing in the city. Waterford Crystal chandeliers hang in Westminster Abbey, Windsor Castle and the Kennedy Centre in Washington D.C. Waterford Crystal makes the 2,688 crystals that cover the orb of the famous New Years Eve Ball that is dropped every year in New York City. Many sporting trophies are made by Waterford Crystal. Sports such as tennis, snooker, golf, Formula One racing, and college football. Many one off pieces are made at Waterford suchas a ball and bat presented to Derek Jeter and a tennis racket made for Boris Becker. Two of each are always made in case something happens to the first one in shipping.

The original Waterford Crystal factory, now a dilapidated building. Apparently there are rumours it is supposed to be converted to some kind of IT training site. This is the factory site I would have toured on my first trip to Ireland.

Some of the pieces on display in the showroom and some from the factory tour.

It takes five years of apprenticeship to be classified as a master. In the fifth and final year the apprentice would be required to complete the Apprentice Bowl. There are 600 precision cuts that are done by hand. The apprentice has only three opportunities to complete the bowl. The cutter would be graded and if passed they would receive the Waterford Crystal watermark.

There is quite a collection of crystal in the showroom displaying bowls, glasses, vases, Christmas ornaments, animals, globes, and chandeliers. The prices are mind boggling, but once you do the tour and realize the time, precision and inspections (6) that go into making each piece, it is understandable.

We had some free time in Waterford to have lunch, shop or walk around. After a nice lunch, Krista and I headed out for a walk finding our way back to Christ Church Cathedral. It is an Anglican/Episcopalian Cathedral that has been a place of Christian worship for over 1,000 years. This Cathedral is home to an impressive Elliot James Organ. It is one of the most important organs outside of Dublin. The case is solid mahogany and facade pipes are gold plated. During renovations in 1891, the organ was taken down from its gallery and relocated to the front left of the cathedral. This compromised the appearance and sound. In 2003 the organ was restored and returned to its original position. The cathedral is gorgeous but I did find it a bit tacky to walk into a church and immediately see a souvenir shop selling imported Irish knick knacks.

Ceiling inside the church. So delicate looking.

Clock Tower at Meagher’s Quay, Waterford City

We arrived back at the hotel around 4pm. We were due to leave for the Marine Pub at 7. Time to call a cab for a short trip to Ring. I asked the lady at the front desk to call a cab for me. I wasn’t entirely sure just how far I was going, but knew it wasn’t a great distance. Perhaps 10-12kms or so. She dialed on cab, but no answer. She tried another, but no answer. She told me many don’t start working until 6. The third try connected her to a cab and she requested a pick up at the Park Hotel. She hung up and said they would be there within 5 minutes. I went outdoors to wait. I was a bit apprehensive about riding in a cab. Had visions of a creepy cab driver, run down car, dirty interior. Well, not even close. The car drove up and I asked if I could ride in front. The driver very happily said I certainly could. I was shocked with the interior. Absolutely spotless, leather seats, and looking brand new. I asked the driver to take me to the New Cemetery in Ring. His name was Anthony (Tony) Ahearne, and I could not have found a better driver. We talked the whole way to Ring. He asked if I was on a tour and I told him I was. When I told him the musical hosts we had, it turns out he had bought a house from one of them several years ago. He was shocked and we had a great laugh over that. He couldn’t believe. A small world for sure. He was very curious asking me about the trip and where I lived. He was just a genuinely nice guy. I was so thankful that the first two cabs that were called were not available. We passed the cemetery to turn around as it is easier to drive into from the opposite direction. I was looking for Liam Clancy’s gravesite. This is something I had planned to do when I first signed up for this tour in 2020. I have loved the music of the Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem from the time I was born. I was brought up on their music. I was lucky to see the original group perform, and the various combinations of the group. I also saw Liam Clancy and Tommy Makem as both soloists and Makem & Clancy. In the later years of Liam’s life he had a website. The first one was designed by Michael Corbett and had a very active messageboard which I assisted in maintaining and monitoring. Later Paul Grant designed Liam’s website and the messageboard continued to be a big part of the site and I continued to monitor it until it no longer existed. It was interesting. I exchanged emails with Liam often. Sometimes I’d get an email out of the blue. I miss those spontaneous correspondences with him. I miss his music. I miss him as a person. I needed to find his resting place. I had no idea where to look, but it wasn’t a large cemetery and I knew it was right along the paved path going through the cemetery. I hurried up a small hill, so as not to keep Tony waiting too long. I immediately noticed Tom Clancy’s gravestone to the right. I knew Liam’s was across from Tom’s. When I looked across, it was right there. A gentleman was visiting the site, so I held back so as not to disturb him. When he turned to leave, our eyes met and we greeted one another. Then I realized I recognized him. It was Paul Grant who backed up Liam and preformed with Liam and designed the last website for him. We had a few words and he turned and went on his way. I stood at the site, my throat became tight and soon my eyes watered. I thanked Liam for all he was; a singer, musician, performer, artist, but most of all I thanked him for just being himself. I told him how much he is still missed and loved by so many. I had three Canadian dimes with me. I placed them on his tombstone, Bluenose side up. I know he loved coming to the Maritimes to perform, so I thought it was appropriate to leave them. I rushed back to the cab. Tony said he was going to come help me look but noticed I was taking to the gentleman so assumed I had found the site. He was so happy I did find it. We had wonderful conversation on the drive back to the hotel. Tony didn’t charge me full fare. What a kind man he is. Such a special time and I think he knew it meant a lot to me.

Mooney’s pub, Ring. We turned here as it was easier to park at the cemetery coming from this direction.

Tom Clancy’s resting place.
Epitaph – “Goodnight sweet prince. And flights of angels sing thee to thy rest.” William Shakespeare, Hamlet

I left three dimes for the three Maritime provinces; New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia. I knew Liam loved to visit the Maritimes. I wished I had a fourth for Newfoundland.

After a quick bite for supper it was soon time to head to the Marine. It was about a 25 minute drive on a gorgeous night. When we arrived the pub was rocking with locals. We quickly made our way to the empty chairs and stools. I talked to a couple of local ladies who were so sweet. We were jammed in pretty tight. We were so close to the guys singing that I swear we were getting spit on. And what a performance they put on. Brilliant. Kevin Evans sang one of my favourite songs he wrote, The Orchard. I’m not sure I ever heard him sing it better. I should have asked him if it means more to sing a song about home, at home. I would think it was a special time for him. Oh my happy heart. A wonderful way to end an amazing day.

A few seals performing in the harbour as we left for the Marine Bar.

Many pictures adorn the wall. Two of several of Liam Clancy.

The lady on the left is the lady on the right, whose name escapes me.

The three music-a-teers, or amigos; Tom Sweeney, Kevin Evans and Brian Doherty. I highly recommend travelling with your own musicians. 🙂

That completes my visit to Waterford, Ring and Dungarvan. It was a busy but special day. I enjoy adding my own side trips to the regularly schedules events. If you enjoyed this blog, please leave a message. As usual, all photos are taken by myself.

Ireland 2023 Part 5

July 12, 2023 / Hughena MacDougall / 5 Comments

May 23 – Day 6 Killarney to Dungarvan via Blarney Castle & Cobh

Accommodations: Park Hotel, Dungarvan

As we leave the Kingdom (Kerry) we make our way to the Dungarvan, County Waterford (The Deise). Dennis is sad to leave Kerry, but Kevin is happy to be home in the Deise. The ribbing on the bus between the different counties is fun. Tom and Brian are from Omagh, County Tyrone.

Our first stop today is Blarney Castle and the Woollen Mills. Of course Blarney Castle is home to the Blarney Stone where folklore confers the gift of eloquence for those who kiss it. I did not kiss it in 1986, nor this time. However, perhaps I should have as it might help with my writing skills. Blarney Castle and surrounding grounds were filled with hundreds, more like thousands of people. Many coaches were already parked by the time we arrived. The place was literally crawling with people. A far cry from what I remember on my first visit. I remember climbing to the top with no wait time and absolutely no one in front or behind me on the way up. What a difference. In fact, I don’t remember anyone else on the grounds when I was there. Krista wanted to kiss the stone and I decided to join her on the journey to the top. The wait time….1.5 hours. Imagine. We had a 3 hour stopover, so that was lots of time to enjoy the wait and walk to the top and to visit the woollen mills as well. There was much that I didn’t remember from my first visit, but being only 20 perhaps I didn’t pay as much attention. I didn’t recall the steps getting smaller and smaller as we got closer to the top, to the point I could not put my foot fully on some steps. Perhaps my aching knees pointed out the size of the steps this time. But it was well with the climb and discomfort as the views from the top of the castle are spectacular. The process for kissing the stone is to lay on your back, reaching back to hold onto iron bars in each hand, leaning backwards over the wall and kissing the stone, while an attendant holds your sides/waist. Nope, not for me. One lady attempted it and could not complete the stretch over and downward. Krista was as limber as a 5 year old, laying back, kissing, and getting up in a matter of seconds. Good for her.

The lineup ahead of us, winding its way to the entrance

“Wait time to enter the castle and kiss the stone from this point is 90 min.”

But the scenery, as we made our way was glorious.

Looking up, from the ground, as people prepare to kiss the stone.

Narrow stairs to keep people out, not let them in.

A view from one of the windows on the way up.

The walk up is definitely worth it when you get to see views like this. Stunning.

Blarney House view from the top of Blarney Castle

The attendant patiently waiting for the next daredevil.

Looking across to the other side of the top of the castle. There is a walkway around the perimeter of the top of the castle. Don’t look down.

Descending was a breeze with no wait at all. There is one set of steps leading up and another coming down. We did meet an employee heading up while we went down and I asked him what happens in the event of a medical emergency at the top. He said they use a helicopter of which one is always on alert nearby. And it has happened several times in the past. Believe me, with the narrow staircase, there is no way of getting a stretcher up and down.

There is so much more to Blarney than the castle and the stone. There is a poison garden with many plants from around the world and signs posted with information about their toxicity, tradition and uses today. There are arboretums, woodland and riverside walks, a fern garden and water garden, waterfalls, dolmen, druids cave, wishing steps and so much more. Only after looking at the brochure did I realize there is so much more to see on the grounds besides the castle and the stone. Three hours is not nearly enough time to take it all in.

After visiting the castle we made our way to the woollen mills. The woollen mills started in 1823 and was known as Mahoney’s Mills. In 1923 Christy Kelleher was 13 when he started working in the mills. He left in 1951 and entered the insurance business. In 1967 he started a souvenir shop. In 1973 the woollen mills started to decline and closed. Eventually Christy Kelleher purchased the woollen mills and transformed it into the Blarney Woollen Mills as it is known today. It is the largest Irish shop in the world, consisting of three floors, and sells products from every county in Ireland. Over half a million people visit each year and over 400 people are employed. There are crafts, food, folklore and fashion under one roof. After a little shopping I had a light snack and another 99. Surprisingly I didn’t take any pictures of the woollen mills. I was too focused on a 99.

On our travels we passed this castle. It is Belvelly Castle, built in 14th or 15th century. It has fallen into ruin in the 19th century. It was somewhat modified by the Irish Army between 1939-45. It was sold in the 21st century and underwent major restoration which was completed in 2018. It is a private dwelling and the owner is a sponsor of the local football club the Cobb Ramblers FC.

We resume our journey to the coastal town of Cobh. The first site we see is the massive cruise ship which explains the many people and coaches at Blarney Castle.

This explains why there were so many at Blarney Castle

Cobh, previously known as Queenstown, is the last port of call on the Titanic’s ill fated maiden voyage. We stop at the Cobh Heritage Centre to learn more about the Titanic. I had other plans while in Cobh. I had seen the amazing Titanic museum in Belfast in 2019 and decided to visit the Cobh Heritage Centre, only if time permitted, after making my way to St. Colman’s Cathedral. I had seen pictures of this spectacular church and knew several people who had visited and I wanted to see it as well. I asked a local how far it was and she told me it was not far, but it was a bit of a walk uphill. She gave me directions and off I went.

Still climbing. Lots of wind turbines in Ireland.

Deck of Cards houses. The church is to the right of this picture.

The Crescent. A row of 13 terraced houses built in 1850.

St. Colman’s Cathedral is Roman Catholic. It was started in 1868 and not completed until 1919. The ever changing plans and increasing costs caused many delays. It overlooks Cork harbour, is a single steepled cathedral and is the tallest church in Ireland with the steeple measuring 300′. It is primarily constructed of granite and limestone, on a bed of sandstone. The architectural style is Gothic Revival. The tower contains Ireland’s only carillon with 49 bells and is the largest in the British Isles. The largest bell is 3.6 tons and is named St. Colman. The carillon was originally installed in 1916 and restored in 1998.

A closer look at some of style of the cathedral.

The walk to the cathedral was very steep but well worth the climb. There was a funeral just letting out when I arrived, so I continued with my walk where I stood admiring the view. A gentleman in a suit was approaching me and I assumed he had been to the funeral. He stopped and we had a short conversation. He assured me it was fine to enter the church as everyone had exited and were only milling around greeting one another. I had seen some tourists enter and he said to go ahead back down and tour the interior. He said ‘the best part is no one will be in there yet’. Although I felt a bit awkward considering the hearse and many people were still around, I kept my distance and proceeded to enter the cathedral. WOW! Absolutely incredible.

A view from slightly beyond the cathedral. I was waiting for the funeral to clear.

Inside. So much to see and not enough time to photograph much of it.

Just amazing. I’m getting goosebumps as I look at these pictures.

When I was finished at the cathedral I made my way back to the Cobh Heritage Centre. The admission ticket is a replica of the ticket that would have been given for passage on the Titanic. On it is the name of a passenger and Dennis suggested finding the history of the passenger on our ticket. I had Margaret Rice. I had enough time to try to find her story. She was born in Athlone, County Westmeath. She married William Rice. They had a son who only lived 2 months. They moved to London where they welcomed another son. They made there way to Quebec, where another son was born. They settled for a time in Ontario, welcoming two more sons. Eventually they crossed into the US and settled in Spokane, Washington, where one more son was born. William Rice was crushed by an engine and died in 1910. With a payout from her husband’s company, Margaret and her sons return to Athlone. Apparently her stay in Ireland was not to be permanent and she and her sons made plans to return to Spokane on the Titanic. The whole family was lost and only Margaret Rice’s body was recovered. She is buried in Mount Olivet Cemetery in Halifax, Nova Scotia. She was only 39. How sad. Now I want to visit her resting place which I hope to do soon. I recently found out a friend lives right across from the cemetery and said she would like to go with me to see Margaret Rice’s resting place.

It was a short drive from Cobh to Dungarvan, our stay for the next two nights. We had a group dinner but no music tonight, as there will be a concert tomorrow night at a local pub. Krista and I went for a walk around the town this evening. A pretty place, along the harbour.

Another menu from our group supper. I had Sorbet and salmon. I passed on desert.

It was delicious. Lots of mashed potatoes under there and the bowls of veggies on the table were plentiful and delicious.

“A Stolen Ringbuoy is a Stolen Life” – these were all along the rock wall.

I hope you enjoyed my visit to Blarney Castle, Cobb, and Dungarvan. All photos are taken by myself unless otherwise noted. Please leave a comment if you wish.

Ireland 2023 Part 4

July 9, 2023 / Hughena MacDougall / 2 Comments

May 22 – Day 5 Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry is one of the places on this trip that I visited with my Grandmother. I was driving on the trip with her, so I was very much looking forward to sitting back and letting Dennis do the driving. I don’t think I’d drive in Ireland again. There is much more traffic now than there was almost 40 years ago.

Driving is not for the faint of heart in Ireland. It is not uncommon on the narrower roads to see side mirrors along the edge. Often times there is no shoulder in which to pull off.

The Ring of Kerry, 179km’s, is one of the most scenic drives in Europe and today it did not disappoint. We were blessed with sunshine all day. This route has it all; amazing scenery, rolling hills and rugged mountains, coastline, lakes, beacahes, bleating sheep, grazing cows, narrow winding roads and every turn is breathtaking. We circled the MacGillycuddy Reeks We travelled the coastline of the Iveragh Peninsula through the towns of Glenbeigh, Cahirciveen, Waterville and Sneem. Sneem provided me with my second 99. Yum. Gorgeous greens everywhere and the views from the various pull off stops were amazing. We stopped to have lunch and one sign said ‘the best view in Ireland, weather permitting’. We had no worries today as the weather obliged. We stopped at Kate Kearney’s pub for supper. It was another delicious meal. After supper the guys treated us to another session before we headed back to our hotel in Killarney.

One of the roadside stops found this gentleman, and his pets, making Brigid’s Cross out of straw or rushes. Love the dog sitting on the donkey.

Eamon O’Doherty sculpture of four monks, on of them being St. Brendan, in a boat held up by 8 oars. It represents the monks voyage to the monastery at Skellig Michael.

You can see another ringed fort in this picture.

Statue of the Virgin Mary at the peak of Beenarourke overlooking the Ballinskelligs Bay.

Cream of vegetable soup, which seems to be a staple in Ireland, and yummy bread and butter, and sparkling water.

I agree, the views are spectacular fog permitting. We had such great weather.

Kevin and Brian, two of the three music-a-teers, holding up the sign.
Com An Chiste.

Yes, there are lovely beaches in Ireland. Beautiful sandy beaches.

Ladies View – one of the most photographed views in Ireland. Named for the admiration of Queen Victoria’s ladies in waiting during her visit to Ireland in 1861.

Ladies View – overlooking the Lakes of Killarney. The three lakes are Loch Leane, Muckross (sometimes called the middle lake) and Upper Lake.

A visit to Kate Kearney’s cottage where we’d have supper and another musical session.

Roast turkey, ham and all the trimmings.

Capped off by some great music. Sheesh, how lucky are these three to be travelling with us.

I walked around Killarney after we got back to our hotel. I visited a church. For someone who is not religious, but maybe spiritual, I do enjoy finding churches and spending time in them. It was a nice quiet evening spent walking and losing my thoughts about how lucky I am to be in Ireland.

I’ll take you for my evening walk around Killarney

Carved from an oak tree. **The piece includes a monk, crozier, quill and a book representing the Annals of Inisfallen compiled in and around 1092 on the monastic island of Inisfallen on Killarney’s Lough Leane.**” From the Killarney Fansicans Facebook Site.

Laburnum tree – the amount of blossoms is stunning.

Monument erected by Mary McAleese in memory of those from Killarney who served and died in WW1.

Things that make me laugh. ‘ish’ time in Ireland is common.

It appears it was neither day or night when I was out walking. Just what was it?

Ralph, who wasn’t much of a guard dog in the shop. He never woke up when I was there.

The bridge players; Suzanne, Mary, Stephen and Bryce. They were kind enough to let me watch and even let me play two demo hands with them.

So that is a wrap on Killarney. We will head for Dungarvan tomorrow with some adventures along the way. I hope you are enjoying my tour. I’m reliving it as I go through the pictures and remembering so many things. Leave a comment if you wish. All photos are taken by myself unless otherwise noted. Many of these that have no captions were taken along the Ring of Kerry. Truly a beautiful route.

Ireland 2023 Part 3

July 4, 2023 / Hughena MacDougall / 5 Comments

May 21, 2023 – Day 4 Galway to Killarney

Accommodations: International Hotel, Killarney

Through the bus window, so not as clear as I’d like.

Today we travelled through the Burren in County Clare. The Burren is 135 miles of limestone landscape. It was shaped by geological forces hundreds of millions of years ago. Alpine and Arctic plants thrive beside Mediterranean plants due to the temperate climate. Over 70% of Ireland’s species of flowers are found in the Burren.

On our way to our first guided tour we passed the Poulnabrone Dolmen. There are several dolmens in the Burren. Dolmens are standing stones and may have been a burial/tomb site and/or a territorial marker. They were placed 3,000-4,000 years ago and some stones weigh in excess of 2500lb. Many remains were discovered between 1986-88. It appears the Neolithic people had short life spans with only one person being older than 40, of the remains that were found. There were many artifacts buried with the remains such as jewelry, stone axes, arrowheads and pottery among other things. There was evidence of arthritis in the necks and shoulders of many of the people, and their teeth showed possibly malnutrition or infections.

Our first stop is at Caherconnell Fort where we had a guided tour of the fort and then were treated to an amazing display of working sheepdogs.

Caherconnell Fort is one of the best preserved stone forts in the Burren. It was built in the 10^th Century AD and remained in use through the start of the 17^th Century. A lovely lady took us on a guided tour explaining the various areas, when additions occurred, and the many artifacts which have been excavated. The stone wall was built in 900AD and are still standing. The ringed are measures 42 metres. The walls are 3 metres thick and up to 3 metres high. The family, which would have lived within the ringed area, could have upwards of 30 members. Servants and slaves would live outside the ring. There is evidence that very little trading took place between those within the ring and those living outside the ring. However there is evidence that the servants and slaves traded with the outsiders. Some of the artifacts discovered outside the ringed area are glass from Venice and amber from the Baltic. Other discoveries are jewelry, board game pieces, musical instruments and the earliest pen found in the British Isles. These finds indicate a high class settlement, cultured and literate. The government has archeologists come in to work every summer. The work is carried out in a cordoned area and the must stay within the confines.

Information on the stone wall and the archaeological work done by students.

“This wall was a built in 2006. Stones are placed vertically to prevent damage by winds. This type of wall is still widely practiced in the Burren.”

“The detailed information on the fort is the result of the efforts of over 200 archaeology students under the guidance of Dr. Michelle Comber, School of Archaeology at the National University of Ireland in Galway. They have worked tirelessly since 2007 to illuminate the Caherconnell story and provide a fascinating insight into the life in an ancient fort over 1000 years ago.”

Quite a contrast – an automatic mower on a 1000 year old premises.

The remains of an adult female and two infants dating to 600AD were discovered under the fort walls.

They were left undisturbed during fort construction.

Forts like Caherconnell were built by powerful families to display their status.

The next event we experienced was a sheepdog demonstration. The skills of the sheepdog and the master are amazing. I had seen a demonstration on my last trip that was truly impressive. Only female dogs are used as male dogs tend to be less attentive and seem to have selective hearing. (Sound familiar ladies?) This demonstration would use 4 dogs; Rose, Jess, Lynn and one I can’t remember. First the master used just one dog to herd the sheep. Each dog has a unique whistle for left, right, stay, come and away. So a dog will know at least 5 whistles. Whistles are used instead of voice commands because often when herding sheep from the mountains they are out of vocal range. The dogs love to work and are eager to get going. Each dog performed very well. At the end the master worked all four dogs at the same time. So….although each dog may know 5 whistles, the master would have to know 20 unique whistles, as no two dogs work using the same whistle. It is mind boggling how he can remember each whistle for each dog and how he wants them to herd the sheep. Truly brilliant on both the dogs part and the masters part.

Guarding the sheep after taking them around a course.

The eyes are the dog are feared by the sheep. “Don’t you move”, she says with her eyes.

I guess I don’t get out much. This is a faucet and hand dryer all in one. Loved it.

It was then onward to the Cliffs of Moher. They are not the highest cliffs in Ireland but they are the most popular. I actually saw the highest cliffs, Slieve League Cliffs, on my tour in 2019. The Cliffs rise to a height of over 700ft at O’Brien’s Tower and run along the coast of Clare for 14kms, 8 miles. They were formed over 320 million years ago and are home to major colonies of nesting sea-birds. I was really looking forward to the Cliffs of Moher, but also feeling a bit of emotions as we got closer. In 1986 Grandma and I had wanted to see the Cliffs of Moher but we ran out of time. It was our only disappointment with our trip, that we didn’t have the time.

Our weather had been cloudy and overcast for the first couple of days, but as we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher the skies brightened and although hazy, the sun was trying hard to come out. When we arrived the parking lot was quite full with coaches and cars indicating there were a couple of thousand people visiting the cliffs. You have a choice to go to the left, or to the right and Krista and I choice to go to the right. It is a bit of a climb up many stairs and paved paths. An 8 person golf cart also runs up and down continuously but we chose to walk. My first glimpse of the Cliffs was amazing, and a bit emotional. I won’t lie, my throat had a huge lump and my eyes were watery. I was so special to finally see them. I took a picture of Grandma in my knapsack and after walking about for a bit, I pulled it out and snapped a couple of pictures of her picture and the Cliffs in the background. I felt her presence with me.

Leaving the parking area towards the Cliffs of Moher. You can see many coaches in the background.

My first glimpse. I was a little choked up.

I took this picture of Grandma with me. Special moment.

Krista and I explored O’Brien’s Tower was built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O’Brien as an observation point for the many English tourists. Another version is that he built it to impress the many women he was courting. The views from the top are somewhat obstructed by the turrets and it was quite difficult to get good pictures with the amount of people who were there. I did stretch out as far as I could to get some photos including some of the Aran Islands. We continued to walk along the Cliffs for quite a distance before turning back. Krista ventured up the left hand side of the Cliffs while I made my way back to grab a quick bite to eat and my first 99. Yum!

Aran Islands from the top of O’Brien’s Tower.

View as we walked beyond O’Brien’s Tower along a path.

View as we walked along a path after O’Brien’s Tower.

Looking at the shore from the path at the Cliffs of Moher

This is a 99. Soft serve with a Flakey. OMG….Delicious.

We left the Cliffs of Moher to continue to our destination of Killarney about an hour away. We crossed an estuary of the River Shannon by ferry, about a 20 minute crossing, arriving in the Kingdom of Kerry. Dennis, our driver is from Kerry, and he was sure to let us know it is known as the Kingdom.

Passing another ferry as we crossed the River Shannon

We had a group supper at our hotel this evening and another musical session by our wonderful hosts; Kevin Evans, Brian Doherty and Tom Sweeney. Gabriel Donahue also stopped in for a few songs. I ended my night soaking in a jacuzzi tub for a half hour. Heavnely.

Another group meal menu. I had soup, roast of the day (turkey and ham) and Pavlova.

Gabriel Donahue joined Kevin, Brian and Tom for a few songs.

One thing I have been noticing on our travels is the abundance of yellow flowers. Besides the Gorse that is in bloom everywhere, there are lots of yellow lilies along the roadway and yellow roses are in abundance with very large blossoms and so many blossoms. There is also a beautiful tree that has large hanging yellow blossoms. It is called Laburnum and sometimes called Golden Chain. I learned that every part of the tree; trunk, bark, leaves and blossoms are poisonous.

Yellow Iris – although taken at the Kylemore Abbey, these grow wild in the ditches of the highways.

Lots and lots of yellow roses. Sometimes hundreds on a bush. Red ones don’t seem as common, much smaller and with many less blooms.

Lots of gorse on the hills and mountains. Sheep don’t eat it, but mountain goats will. It is very thorny.

I hope you enjoyed the third post of my trip. All photos taken by myself unless otherwise noted. Enjoy and leave a comment if you wish.

Ireland 2023 Part 2

July 3, 2023 / Hughena MacDougall / 2 Comments

May 20, 2023 – Day 3 Connemara

It was overcast as we drove through the Connemara region to the Kylemore Abbey. I had visited Kylemore Abbey on my trip in 2019. On that trip I spent most of the time at the gardens and therefore didn’t have time to tour the actual Abbey. On this trip I took the shuttle out to the gardens, saving about 30 minutes. Although the walk is gorgeous, I knew I wanted to do more on this visit. Kylemore Abbey is home to the Benedictine Nuns. The grounds include a restored abbey, Gothic church, craft shop, restaurant and walled garden. It was initially built as a castle in 1868. The property was purchased by Mitchell Henry as a love token for his wife Margaret. They developed the estate and spent 35 years at Kylemore Abbey. Henry sold the property to the Duke of Manchester, William Angus Drogo Montague, and his wife Duchess of Manchester, Helena Zimmerman. They made major changes, removing much of the Italian inspired interiors, large stained glass window, and large quantities of Connemara and Italian marble. The Benedictine Nuns took up residence in 1920 and still reside in Kylemore Abbey. From 1923 to 2010 there was a boarding and day school for international and local girls.

The Victorian Walled Garden is 6 acres. There are two distinct gardens; the Kitchen Garden and the Flower Garden. The garden was built on the warmest and brightest spot on the estate. There is good drainage and a mountain stream provided water. Two glasshouses, the head gardener’s house and the workman’s bothy have been restored.

Within the walled gardens at Kylemore Abbey

Azalea and a couple of palm trees in the background.

The children’s fairy path had wonderfully painted rocks.

I believe these are called fuchsia. They are often seen in hedges around Ireland, with holly.

In the greenhouse was an amazing Bird of Paradise and this geranium that filled a large section of a wall.

Just a small sampling of the many gardens.

In addition there are meandering paths through fields, meadows and woodlands. You can see waterfalls, as many as 24 species of trees, Connemara ponies, Ken and Gloria ( the resident pigs – I’m glad they didn’t call Gloria, Barbie), chocolate kitchen where the Benedictine nuns make delicious chocolate, Gothic Church built by Mitchell Henry in memory of his wife Margaret, Mausoleum where Margaret and Mitchell Henry rest together. I love visiting Kylemore Abbey. I’d suggest at least 3-4 hours to be able to make the most of a visit and not feel too rushed.

I didn’t notice any information on whose wedding dress this was. Gorgeous though.

Four years ago the mountain was amass of rhododendrons in bloom. This year I noticed that the rhododendrons were not as advanced, nor were the gardens, but still a gorgeous place to visit. So much to see and do.

It was suggested by our driver, Dennis, to have the apple pie and warm custard. I did. WOW!!! I’m not much for apple pie but quite possibly the best I’ve ever had. Perhaps the warm custard made it so. Delicious.

We drove around the Killary Fjord which provided breathtaking views.

Wild Atlantic Way signpost – Killary Harbour

We had light showers this afternoon and heavy rain in the evening. We were on free time and all I did was find a pub for some supper.

A slight crisis this evening as I inadvertently locked my keys in my suitcase and locked the suitcase. Don’t ask how or why, it happened. The first porter broke the cutters he was using. He told me he’d be back with a stronger person. He returned with a second guy but had no luck with larger cutters and a strong set of hands. They decided they would go to the kitchen and borrow a saw but I’d have to wait until the kitchen closed around 9:30. I posted on Facebook about my dilemma and received a few suggestions to Google it. I did and what do you know? Yes, Google and I are now best friends. If it ever happens to you just take a blunt pen, stick it between the zipper teeth and the zipper will pop open. I tried doing this on a secondary zipper first and it worked and I was able to re-zip the zipper. I quickly went to the reception desk to cancel the porters, and the saw.

An old Woolco lock that proved to be very strong.

First set of cutters broke. Onto the second set. Two very nice porters tried to help.

A wonderful day and even the rain didn’t dampen our spirits. I hope you enjoy travelling with me on this trip. Please leave a comment if you like. All photos taken by myself unless otherwise noted.

Celtic Beamer

Page 2 of 11

Ireland 2023 Part 6

Ireland 2023 Part 5

Ireland 2023 Part 4

Ireland 2023 Part 3

Ireland 2023 Part 2

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